Leaf-cutter bees outside my Studio
Why attract leaf-cutter bees?
Leaf-cutter bees are incredible creatures to encourage into your garden or allotment – great to observe and look after, and they are wonderful pollinators. This kind of bee is a ‘solitary bee‘ which does not form a hive or make honey, but works alone, although they will nest side-by-side and not fight or compete. They are in fact perfect bees for the garden, and safe around children as they do not store honey and so have nothing to ‘defend’ from attack. They are quite happy to let you go right up to the nest to see what they’re doing, as you can see from these shots of a bee hatching in my garden this week (click for a closer view):
What do the bees do in the tubes..?
The tubes are just the right size to allow the bees to easily construct their nest cells, which they make from circles of leaves. The bees fly out into your garden, cut perfect circles from your rose bush leaves (see also photo below, third from left), and fly back to the nest. You can follow them around your garden as they do this! Once back at the nest, the bee will curl up the circle of leaf, and take it into the tube with her. A bee will need many leaf circles to make each cell, since she lines the sides of the tube as well as sealing both ends of each cell with many layers of leaves. Before she seals each cell, she lays one egg, and puts food of pollen ‘bee bread’ to enable the hatched larvae to eat and grow during the time the cell is sealed. All of these activities can be observed by watching the tubes during the summer. Also fun to watch are the females bees clearing out old tubes at the beginning of the season; kicking out old leaf-debris in previously-used tubes, or removing the paper inserts from newer tubes (see photo below, second from left). These bees prefer to re-use an old tube rather than re-line a completely new one with leaves, and will ignore new tubes if there are any empty, weather-beaten tubes to re-colonise!
The life-cycle of leaf-cutter bees, in brief: The young bees emerge from their nests in June, and mate. After this the males die, and the females begin the work of nesting and laying eggs. Once sealed into the cells the eggs hatch, and the larvae feed on the ‘bee bread’, grow, pupate and develop into the bees which then hatch almost a year after they were laid as eggs. These newly-hatched bees mate, lay their eggs, and die before the summer is over, never seeing their off-spring.
How can I start encouraging solitary bees into my garden?
Where to buy the nests: The Oxford Bee Company who originally sold the cylinders and tubes is no longer trading, but cylinders and tubes can be purchased from various places online, for example WigglyWigglers and CJ Wildbird Foods. Or search online for ‘Oxford Bee Company’ for other suppliers. You can also make nests yourself out of old garden canes and similar stems, or by drilling holes in a block of wood, and these are successful. But I have found that the bees can be a little fussy about the diameter of hole they prefer, and many of the tubes may go unused if they are too big or too small – however these may be used by other bees or insects. I have had mason bees (which make their cells out of mud) nesting alongside the leaf-cutters in my nests.
Siting: The first year I tried the cylinders I attached them to a sunny wooden fence, but while there was some interest from bees that summer, none of them nested. I have since found that the bees do not particularly like the tubes when they are new, and prefer them to be somewhat weathered. However, I have also heard that the vibrations caused by the fence moving in the wind may also have discouraged them from settling. So I have followed advice to place the cylinders in a stable and sunny spot, a few feet from the ground, and preferably somewhere the tubes won’t get wet.
Plants to grow: There is a very useful site here which lists the kinds of plants that bees love. Obviously, leaf-cutters also like roses from which to harvest nest material, but they will use other similar plants and of course fly around the neighbourhood in order to locate suitable leaves! And equally obviously don’t use chemical sprays in the garden, as these are poisonous to bees; consider gardening Organically with wildlife controls, barriers, etc., it really is the only way if you want to encourage any kind of wildlife.
Over winter: Once the summer is over and the tubes are all sealed, you will need to put the cylinders somewhere dry and cool for the bees to over-winter. A garden shed seems ideal, but don’t forget to take them out again next Spring! Once Spring comes, re-position your cylinders where they were the previous year, and wait for the new bees to hatch. My leaf-cutters begin to hatch in the first weeks of June, towards Midsummer.
Lastly: Don’t be discouraged if no bees nest in the first year. It may well take a little while for them to find the nests and settle in. Also, you will find that if you stop spraying chemicals in your garden, and plant more of the bee-friendly plants, you will see a definite increase in bees and other interesting wildlife in your garden anyway!
Also, check out these articles on solitary bees, the best plants to grow for bees, and the Co-Op site on saving bees.
Follow this link to see all posts on leaf-cutter bees.
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Sorry I have read the above article now and it has clarified a few things. Basically we are moving house this month and I am tempted to take the bees with us. The new house has a bigger garden and is on a leafy street, and there’s a shed. However they really loved our bindweed and the new garden has none.
I also have a jar of pollen grains I bought from a health food shop, would they like to eat this roundabout now or over Winter? They smell really rich and nutritious, although they’re from somewhere warmer like the USA.
The new house is two miles away from the old one in an area with more gardens. Does this sound ok? I will check links for bee friendly plants.
Natalie Ratcliffe
2 Oct 10 at 3:58 pm
Hello Natalie, I’m sorry I didn’t see your comments sooner. Yes, as you have worked out, the leaves turning brown and the long wait for them to hatch is all perfectly normal. The bees take several months to develop in the tubes, and they have all they need sealed in with them (the ‘bee bread’). They will need somewhere cool and dry over winter, and will hatch out late next spring as fully-grown bees. I don’t see anything wrong with taking the house with you when you move, although I think the main thing they need is rose leaves (or something similar), they should be able to find this themselves. However, I’ve never tried moving a bee house myself. Best wishes.
Christine
7 Oct 10 at 2:07 pm
Having set up an insect house this Spring I was fascinated to see bees starting to go in and out,and even more surprised when one of the tubes was blocked off with a leaf.I have been watching over the past 2 weeks and did not have a clue what sort bee they were.Have just found your website and it has answered all my unasked questions.Have found it very interesting,like you say they are not aggressive and even my young grandson has been sitting close to the box and watching.Thanks for the info!
Ian Jenner
5 Jul 11 at 7:56 pm
Hello Ian – great to hear about your leafcutters – aren’t they amazing to watch? Thanks ever so much for commenting, it’s fantastic to know that people are finding out about these great little bees. I love that you can just sit and watch them and even get very close to the tubes to see what they’re up to. I’ve just been out taking photos of my leafcuttes for the blog, so I’ll be updating fairly soon. I think I have two different species this year, and another one foraging in the garden but not nesting in my bee houses. So much to learn, especially about identification of species!
Christine
6 Jul 11 at 11:29 am